10 Days in South West of England

I think it’s fair to say for a lot of us who are in love with travel and seeing new places that we’ll often travel far away to new places, but have barely explored our own back gardens. In my case, that’s England. I’ve travelled to Australia, America, Japan & more, but I usually forget how much the United Kingdom has to offer.

With Covid-19 and lockdowns, going abroad has been hugely effected in 2020. And like everyone else who loves getting away, I was starting to feel the anticipation of a new trip. So I decided it would be the perfect time for a staycation to explore the South West of England, and boy was I in for a treat.

After lockdown I’d finally decided to buy a van and we spent the summer kitting it out with a bed. This was the first time we were taking it away and I was super excited.

Onboard Condor Ferries

Important note: The ferry journey was gifted by Condor Ferries.

I’ve taken my car away on our annual trips to France on Condor Ferries, and boarding with a car is always super easy! The whole process is so effortless and before we knew it we were parked and heading upstairs to our seating.

I was super impressed with the measures Condor had taken to keep people safe against Covid-19. While onboard; face coverings were mandatory, occupancy was reduced to encourage physical distancing, hand sanitiser stations were easily available all around the ship, useful signage was everywhere, and all payments onboard are contactless for everyone’s wellbeing.

We’d upgraded to the Horizon Lounge which boasts a beautiful panoramic window (a spectacular view of the sunset!), we also had a table and charging ports so we could finish making those important last minute trip plans. But first, food! After a long day of packing I was ready for some dinner and decided on Condor’s vegan chilli con carne, delicious! Finishing my meal off with a drink from the exclusive Horizon bar, before popping into the onboard duty free shop.

As the sun started going down I grabbed my camera and headed out onto the deck to get some photos and enjoy the fresh air, keeping a look out and my fingers crossed at the chance of seeing some Dolphins - one of my favourite advantages to sailing! (Unfortunately not this time, but I’m always optimistic for my next sailing).

Personally, I have many preferences to sailing over flying. The main one being that I can take my car so I don’t have to rent one, is such a huge win! (I can also pack as many souvenirs as I like - a bigger win!) But from an environmental perspective, travelling by ferry is generally considered a greener option, producing less Co2 than flying! And not to mention, in times of Covid-19 it’s much easier to social distance on a ferry, and get as much fresh air as you want.

The ferry journey from Jersey to the UK is just under 5 hours, which flew by quickly. Before long we started seeing England’s lights on the horizon and got ready to disembark for our exciting adventure!

Bournemouth

We spent the first evening in Bournemouth - only 20 minutes east from Poole Harbour - and woke up after a great night’s sleep in the van, popped the stove on for a cuppa, and got ready to have a wonder down by the seaside and enjoy brunch on the pier.

Bournemouth beach was super pretty, an ideal day at the seaside. The sea was pleasant and calm; perfect conditions for paddle boarders, kayakers and swimmers who were enjoying the late summer warm water. We were blessed with a beautiful blue sky, and for late September the temperature was lovely and mild.

We took a wander down the bay, past some colourful beach sheds where people were sunbathing, and families building castles in the sand. Along the seafront you could hire out water equipment, as well as plenty of restaurants and cafes to grab a coffee or some food, and outdoor seating for people to enjoy.

There was so much to do in Bournemouth, and a whole city to explore! But we only had 10 days, and a lot to of adventure to pack in, so come mid-afternoon we started making our way to our next stop: New Forest.

NEW FOREST

The drive from Bournemouth to New Forest was quick, only 20 minutes! We made a quick stop at the Visitor Centre in Lyndhurst, and of course making some time to explore the village before checking into our campsite, which was conveniently at the entrance to a few walks.

New Forest is incredible, I visited back in 2011 and spent the whole time photographing ponies (you can probably guess what I did this time…) It’s a paradise for outdoor lovers. Whether you’re into cycling, horse riding, hiking or nature photography, there’s more than enough to immerse yourself in, and an excellent place for children and families, too!

We went for a nice stroll before dinner to work up an appetite. The sun was quite low, creating some beautiful golden light for photography. It didn’t take us long to start finding wildlife: horses, deer, cows and a bunch of squirrels trying to hide their nuts.

Finishing the day off with some classic camping food, we munched away as the sun finished setting, and made our plan for the next day. We woke bright and early, and made our way to a deer sanctuary, in hopes of seeing one of the New Forest’s 5 deer species. Let me tell you, they’re pretty elusive! But that was made up by the many, many horses we found, and two adorable foals as we left New Forest.

Stone Henge

I love history, and I’ve always found human pre-history absolutely fascinating. Growing up, my Grandma would take me to see the dolmens around Jersey so Stonehenge has been on my list for years.

I’m so pleased I finally got to see it. It’s pretty incredible. Mind-blowing really. To think Neolithic People, thousands of years ago, managed to move those massive stones from miles and miles away without any modern technology is fascinating.

The prehistoric monument is between 5,000 - 2,500 years old and made up of a ring of upright stones, each weighing around 25 tonnes. There’s still curiosity over how the stones were moved (although it probably wasn’t Aliens), and why it was even built, with theories from it being a place of healing, to a site of worship, or even a temple. While I suppose we’ll never truly know the answer, one things for sure, it’s pretty awesome and I highly recommend a visit!

Roman Baths

Next on the list was to head up to Bath to check out its namesake, the Roman Baths. Being one of the most popular attractions in the UK, it’s easily a tourist highlight. The ancient archaeological site was built by Romans in the 1st century, and the baths and temple complex are built over the UK’s only natural hot spring. We were given an audio guide, and stepped out the main door onto the mezzanine overlooking The Great Bath.

The Roman Baths, which still flows with natural hot water from the thermal springs underneath, were used by the Romans for, well, public bathing, to relax and socialise. But the ancient pilgrimage site was also a place of worship and healing. Many Romans would travel large distances seeking relief from arthritis and other ailments.

We made our way around the top floor, and into the museum taking dozens of photos along the way. The Museum was filled with Roman artefacts and other remains, which included ruins from the old temple courtyard, saunas and the Great Drain. cabinets were filled with coins and jewellery thousands of years old, among other offerings from Roman visitors to the Goddess Sulis Minerva, a deity with healing powers.

Something I found really fascinating was that over the last 2,000 years the street level has risen, so the baths are actually a few meters below street level. Because of this, there have been a few additions to the ruins over the years, such as the terrace, the statues and the visitor centre.

As we were nearing the end, the route led us out onto the level of The Great Bath, the biggest feature of the museum. The water was green from the algae, in Roman times the roof over the baths would have stopped sunlight getting through, and the water would have been clear. I dipped my hand in the fresh stream supplying the bath, it was as warm as a freshly run bathtub (later seeing a sign saying not to touch the water, oops!).

Non-Covid times to complete the tour there’s a water fountain at the end, which you can drink from. It promises over 40 minerals, a natural Fountain of Youth for many people. We didn’t get to try it, but that’s okay - the rest of the museum was incredible on its own. We spent around 3 hours at the museum, and we loved every minute of it!

Dartmoor

We had originally decided to visit Dartmoor National Park because of the amazing rock climbing. Unfortunately a storm hit the South West, and the persistent downpour meant the rock was too wet to climb. However, we’d come prepared with waterproofs, and decided to check out some of the hiking trails.

Dartmoor is beautiful and it’s pretty much exactly what you’d expect when you think of English countryside. Driving down the small windy roads, squeezing our way over tiny bridges with pretty streams, and stopping every so often for sheep and cow crossings. We popped into one of the visitor centres and had a browse around at the maps, Dartmoor postcards, and abundance of Hound of the Baskervilles merchandise, before deciding on a beautiful hike nearby.

The Dartmoor landscape is incredibly green, and the hiking paths are super diverse, with plenty of different ‘difficulties’. Whether you’re a novice or seasoned hiker there’s something for everyone. The hike we chose took us to Wistman’s Woods a short trek that took us to a small ancient forest of stunted Oak trees. It was absolutely beautiful; it looked like something out of Lord of the Rings. We got pretty wet from the rain, but it was absolutely worth it!

Even though we didn’t get to climb, we definitely saw the potential Dartmoor has, and we’ll definitely be back for the rock climbing & more hiking!

Downderry Beach Bouldering

Having missed out on climbing in Dartmoor, we did some research and decided to stop off for some climbing in a little town called Downderry, a quaint, quiet coastal village about 20 miles from Plymouth. It was on our way, so thought we’d check it out.

We threw our climbing pads on our backs, packed our shoes, water, and snacks, and made our way across the beach. Every so often we’d pass another walker with their wet dogs jumping around in the sea, occasionally coming up to us to say hello and shake off their wet fur.

We weren’t really sure what to expect for the climbing, I couldn’t find any pictures online and there weren’t many search results, but we eventually came across a large boulder and set our sights on a couple of routes.

The Shale rock was slippery and polished, but definitely fun nevertheless! I’ve been building up my confidence lately on taller boulders, and this one was a great mental & physical challenge. Along with a rough steep arête problem that made my muscles sore before I’d barely started, we got a good hour of climbing before the rain started. If you’re passing Downderry and simply want to try a couple of routes, it’ll help you get your fix!

Eden Project

Eden Project wasn’t somewhere I originally considered visiting, but after some research I couldn’t wait to go. In essence, The Eden Project is an experimental garden built inside the pit of an old clay mining pit. It’s best known for its massive biomes that house thousands of plant species from around the world.

As you enter you’re immediately greeted with a view of the whole park, including the biomes in the centre. We started slowly making our way around, stopping every so often to smell and admire the dozens of flowers that lined the path.

We entered the Rainforest biome - the main attraction at Eden Project - and there was an immediate wall of humidity, perfect conditions for the hundreds of exotic species. It was pretty spectacular to see so much incredible flora; leaves bigger than I’d ever seen, and trees so tall they were almost touching the roof of this massive greenhouse. Birds chirping, the rustle of trees, rich vegetation, and the faint sound of a waterfall in the distance made it genuinely feel as though we could be in the middle of the Amazon. Banana trees, bamboo, cocoa, and a variety of spices all grown in the middle of rainy Cornwall.

The Mediterranean Biome was much cooler, which was welcomed. I carried a hot chocolate around with me while enjoying the grape vines, citrus trees and chilli plants, and pondering the Mediterranean inspired sculptures, many of which had an environmental message behind them.

The whole park was an experience to learn fascinating things about our environment, from the importance of bees and other insects for pollination, to the diversity of plant species, and how vital nature is to the survival of humans & other animals. But most importantly, the Eden Project demonstrated how an old clay mining pit, a scar in the middle Cornwall, could be entirely transformed into a literal garden of Eden where nature could flourish.

Jurassic Coast, Durdle Door & Lulworth Cove

Durdle Door & Lulworth cove came in as strong recommendations from quite a few people, so it was obvious we couldn’t visit the South West without visiting the Jurassic Coast.

We started off our experience at the Jurassic Coast with fossil hunting. Walking the long stretch of Charmouth Beach, our eyes scouring the pebbles on the sand. Honestly at first we weren’t really sure exactly what we were looking for, and the dinosaur-crazy-4-year-old in me imagined how cool it would be to come across a skull (ever the optimist).

Professional fossil hunters marched past us with large bags and pickaxes, making their way to the far end of the beach. I decided they must know where was best, so we walked as far as we could, and eventually found some pretty awesome fossils! No Skulls, unfortunately, but a nifty Ammonite made an excellent souvenir. Pretty crazy that something you can hold in your hand can belong to an extinct animal millions of years old.

Durdle Door & Lulworth were pretty close to each other, and the incredibly photographic spots definitely made the visit worth while. Luckily for us the dramatic coastline was complimented by beautiful blue skies. Lulworth Cove was super easy to get too, a short walk from the carpark, through the charming village, where we decided we’d get an icecream on the way back. The beach sits in a beautiful natural sharp crescent shaped bay, sheltering it from the rough waves further out at sea.

The hike up to Durdle Door required a bit more effort, the steep cliff burnt my thigh muscles as I marched my way up (My logic: Hike quickly and the pain will be over sooner. It sort of worked, ha.) By the top I was grateful to take my jacket off and sit for a rest. Durdle Door was beautiful, it’s obvious why the the famous limestone arch is such a popular attraction for both tourists and locals, We walked down the stairs to the pebble beach to take some photos and have a quick snack, looking up at the majestic arch and admiring the white limestone cliffs that made up more of the Jurassic Coast.

Portland & Swanage Dinosaur Footprints

With our trip coming to an end we had one last climbing spot we wanted to stop before coming home: Portland. I’d been to Portland once before a few years ago for a bit of sport climbing, so I was pretty pleased to go back.

Portland is a mecca for climbing and is absolutely a must-visit. The small isle has hundreds of limestone routes, with options for everyone whether you’re a new or experienced climber, you’ll find plenty of routes within your grade (and the scenic landscape will make climbing even more rewarding.)

We experienced a lot of rain which made it difficult to do much climbing. The boulders were absolutely saturated from the morning’s rainfall, but we managed to find a bit of dry bouldering at the bottom of a sport crag, and had a great time testing out some tricky moves!

The evening before our ferry, we decided to quickly swing by Swanage - another climbing highlight of the South West - but our muscles were still sore from Portland, and instead of climbing we had something else in mind: The Spyway Dinosaur Footprints.

We took a short walk from the carpark, and eventually found ourselves at a gate reading ‘Dinosaur Footprints”. To be honest, I wasn’t expecting much, perhaps a few vague prints that somewhat resembled a footprint. However, what we saw was actually pretty incredible: Dozens of huge round indentations with a clear trail across the rock. I found it mind blowing to try and visualise how massive these dinosaurs would have been, based on the prints and the distance between the strides.

The tracks date back more than 140 million years ago, when the land was likely swampy, it’s speculated that the area was likely a watering-hole, used by Dinosaurs such as Brachiosaurs - who the prints belonged too - and they’d probably imprinted in clay, and over the millions of years slowly become fossilised layers of rock. A pretty amazing thing to finish our holiday off with!

Home Time

Like all great trips, it was time for us to head home. We’d had an absolute blast travelling around and sleeping in the van, visiting so many amazing places. The sky was lovely and blue, and the sea perfectly calm for our return journey with Condor. We boarded with ease and settled into our seating as we watched England slowly disappear into the distance.

We honestly couldn’t have had a better trip. England has so much to offer and we barely scratched the surface of the South-West, let alone the rest of the United Kingdom. Packed full of nature, adventure, history, and much much more, I can’t wait to go back soon!